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FOREWORD... STEP 1.
For those of you who have or will buy some KCD mounts for your 2.0, I highly recommend them. I installed mine today, and the difference is immediate. A couple years ago, I noticed my motor would rock around like crazy in the engine bay. Now it stays nicely put when I hit the gas, and the power gets to the wheels more quickly without the hesitation from the rocking motor.



VW TECH BY: punkassjim

Remove the new mounts from the package and check them out. Nice and stiff. A new plate and bolt should accompany your new lower front motor mount.

STEP 2. STEP 3.

Using an 8mm allen-head, remove the bolt that holds your front lower motor mount to the bottom of the front crossmember. Depending on the height of your suspension, you might not even need to jack up the car at all. I did, and I used jackstands like everyone should.

Pull the stock lower mount off and compare it to the new one. Cheese. Beefy.

STEP 4. STEP 5.

If you're doing stage 1 (just the lower front motor mount), bolt your new mount on, and tighten it to whatever torque it tells you to in the Bentley manual (and at this point, you're done, having only spent 5 or 10 minutes )
If you're doing stage 2 (front upper AND lower mounts), it might help you to temporarily put the new lower mount in, so the whole assembly doesn't just spin when you go to loosen the bolt for the upper mount.

To remove the upper mount, you need to remove the front motor mounting bracket from the block/tranny. There's the one 16mm bolt that goes straight down through the mount, and there are the two long bolts that go through the starter motor and hold the motor mount bracket to the block. Remove the bolt that goes straight down into the mount.

STEP 6. STEP 7.

Place a floor jack under your engine. I used a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan, and placed it back near the drain plug, since that was the strongest point on MY oil pan...choose a strong point on YOUR oil pan and jack up the motor just a little, so the front mount bracket is a few mm off the mount.

Loosen the long bolts that go through your starter motor, enough so that they aren't holding the motor mount bracket anymore. (I had to remove a section of my FMIC plumbing, but you shouldn't have any trouble reaching it) This is where my instructions might vary because of my motor. I only had these two bolts in there. If you're having trouble removing this bracket, check for another bolt holding it to your block. I honestly can't remember if there was a third bolt holding this bracket on, but if there is, you'll see it. (CAUTION: if your hands or tools will be anywhere near the starter motor, be careful not to contact the positive terminal of the starter. If you are at all worried, disconnect your battery so you don't run any risk)

Couldn't get a good pic of this since film cameras suck sometimes. Here's kind of what it'll look like, though. (see above).

STEP 8. STEP 9.

Remove the bracket from the engine bay. Remove your new lower mount if you chose to do as I suggested above, and then you can pull out the upper front motor mount assembly from the engine bay. Compare the old motor mount to your new one.

Slide the old, squishy mount out of the assembly, and replace it with the new one. If you want to use some white lithium grease to avoid squeaking, it might be a good idea. I didn't, and haven't had any squeaks yet.
STEP 10.
Reinstall in reverse order. It helps to install the starter bolts, top mount bolt, and bottom mount bolt to finger-tight, then tighten everything up to the proper torque. If your top mount bolt doesn't reach, let the jack down a little until you can thread it properly.

ENJOY! go to a parking lot and open your hood...get in the car and step on the gas in 1st. Notice how your engine doesn't move anywhere near as much as it used to.
 

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