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FOREWORD... |
STEP 1. |
For those of you who have
or will buy some KCD mounts for your 2.0, I
highly recommend them. I installed mine today,
and the difference is immediate. A couple years
ago, I noticed my motor would rock around like
crazy in the engine bay. Now it stays nicely put
when I hit the gas, and the power gets to the
wheels more quickly without the hesitation from
the rocking motor.
VW TECH BY: punkassjim |

Remove the new mounts from the package and check
them out. Nice and stiff. A new plate and bolt
should accompany your new lower front motor
mount. |
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STEP 2. |
STEP 3. |
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Using an 8mm allen-head, remove the bolt that
holds your front lower motor mount to the bottom
of the front crossmember. Depending on the
height of your suspension, you might not even
need to jack up the car at all. I did, and I
used jackstands like everyone should. |


Pull the stock lower
mount off and compare it to the new one. Cheese.
Beefy. |
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STEP 4. |
STEP 5. |

If you're doing stage 1 (just the lower front
motor mount), bolt your new mount on, and
tighten it to whatever torque it tells you to in
the Bentley manual (and at this point, you're
done, having only spent 5 or 10 minutes )
If you're doing stage 2 (front upper AND lower
mounts), it might help you to temporarily put
the new lower mount in, so the whole assembly
doesn't just spin when you go to loosen the bolt
for the upper mount. |

To remove the upper mount, you need to remove
the front motor mounting bracket from the block/tranny.
There's the one 16mm bolt that goes straight
down through the mount, and there are the two
long bolts that go through the starter motor and
hold the motor mount bracket to the block.
Remove the bolt that goes straight down into the
mount. |
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STEP 6. |
STEP 7. |

Place a floor jack under your engine. I used a
block of wood between the jack and the oil pan,
and placed it back near the drain plug, since
that was the strongest point on MY oil
pan...choose a strong point on YOUR oil pan and
jack up the motor just a little, so the front
mount bracket is a few mm off the mount. |

Loosen the long bolts that go through your
starter motor, enough so that they aren't
holding the motor mount bracket anymore. (I had
to remove a section of my FMIC plumbing, but you
shouldn't have any trouble reaching it) This is
where my instructions might vary because of my
motor. I only had these two bolts in there. If
you're having trouble removing this bracket,
check for another bolt holding it to your block.
I honestly can't remember if there was a third
bolt holding this bracket on, but if there is,
you'll see it. (CAUTION: if your hands or
tools will be anywhere near the starter motor,
be careful not to contact the positive terminal
of the starter. If you are at all worried,
disconnect your battery so you don't run any
risk)
Couldn't get a good pic of this since film
cameras suck sometimes. Here's kind of what
it'll look like, though. (see above). |
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STEP 8. |
STEP 9. |


Remove the bracket
from the engine bay. Remove your new lower mount
if you chose to do as I suggested above, and
then you can pull out the upper front motor
mount assembly from the engine bay. Compare the
old motor mount to your new one. |
Slide the old, squishy
mount out of the assembly, and replace it with
the new one. If you want to use some white
lithium grease to avoid squeaking, it might be a
good idea. I didn't, and haven't had any squeaks
yet. |
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STEP 10. |
Reinstall in reverse order. It helps to install
the starter bolts, top mount bolt, and bottom
mount bolt to finger-tight, then tighten
everything up to the proper torque. If your top
mount bolt doesn't reach, let the jack down a
little until you can thread it properly.
ENJOY! go to a parking lot and open your
hood...get in the car and step on the gas in
1st. Notice how your engine doesn't move
anywhere near as much as it used to. |
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