| STEP
1. |
STEP
2. |
First you are
going to need to take the front bumper off,
this is very easy and makes installation a
whole lot easier.
The only addition to it that I have is
clarifying how to release the pin holding the
hood release to the mechanism, this step
easily took me the longest to do, it is kind
of tough.
Once you look at the mechanism you can see how
it works, you need to flip up the little piece
of metal that keeps the two sides of the
plastic pull handle from spreading apart, once
that happens you need to spread these two
sides far enough apart to slip the handle off
of the pin, its best accomplished with a large
screwdriver by twisting the screwdriver to
spread the sides apart.
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This is what
the beast should look like now.
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| STEP
3. |
NUMBER
OF HORNS. |
The drivers
side requires a hammer, the passenger side
requires scissors, I started on the driver
side, remember though this is my experience,
you may or may not need to do this.
Hella's instructions state that you can have
one or two horns, I think all North American
cars have two, mine did, if you have one it is
probably easiest to move it to the bottom
mount and just bend it. All you need to do for
the bottom horn is bend the bracket down with
your hand about 3/4 inch, don't be shy.
|
For the top
horn you need to flip over the actual horn and
move it so it is mounted on the top of the
mounting arm.
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| MORE
CLEARANCE. |
ORIGINAL
BOLT. |
|
At this point
I still needed clearance, I determined that
the bolt and mounting ear for the upper horn
mount arm was in the way . The only was around
it was to bend this tab, which is pretty thick
metal. I took off the mounting arm and just
hit it with a hammer to bend it in towards the
engine. In addition the bolt head interfered
with the light housings so I replaced the bolt
with a pan head machine screw and nylon insert
self-locking nut. This finally gave me the
clearance I needed.
|
Here you can
see the paint flaking from the tab being bent
and vaguely how the machine screw head is much
shallower than the original bolt.
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| STEP
4. |
WHAT
TO CUT. |
The passenger
side has a plastic duct for the auxiliary oil
cooler behind the grille. 2.0 Owners will
not have to do this! This
duct needs to be cut in order to accommodate
the housing.
|
This picture
shows where to cut (I haven't cut quite enough
yet).
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| STEP
5. |
STEP
6. |
Now
test fit the bumper by putting the bumper on
and putting in the center screw, test fit the
grilles with the housings. If they don't fit
make adjustments, it may require some
ingenuity. I had to do this 5 or 6 times
before I got it right! (of course no one wrote
this for me!).
|
Now
for the wiring, on a GLX it is pretty easy, I
decided to wire the Hella's to be switched on
by the activation of the standard fogs (in the
cluster) for GLX this procedure is the same
whether you have the euro switch or the OEM
North American switch. First take the drivers
side headlight off using the instructions
provided in the bumper removal site. With the
headlight out of the way locate the fog light
wire (it was grey w/ yellow stripe on my car).
Now for a little wiring talk. The Hella wiring
loom comes with a relay, a switch, two looms
that go to the lights, a loom that goes to the
switch, a loom that goes to the parking lights
and a loom that goes to the battery. This is
how the standard Hella way would work:
Your parking lights (when on) would provide
power for the switch through the grey wire.
The switch (when on) would then transmit the
power to the relay through the yellow wire.
The relay then turns itself "on"
using this signal and closes the contacts
between the positive battery loom and the
lights, turning them on.
All we need is a trigger for the relay, so in
essence we can get rid of all the wiring for
the switch, including the entire grey wire.
All you need to do is connect the yellow
trigger wire directly to the factory fog light
wire mentioned above. This setup eliminates
the need to run a wire through the firewall. If
you don't have a GLX, or want to wire the
lights separately from the factory lights
there are two ways to go. If you are using
a euro or GLX switch just run the yellow wire
to fog light pin on the back of the switch
(bypass the whole parking light thing). If you
are going to use the Hella switch (or another)
just use the Hella instructions. |
| STEP
7. |
STEP
8. |
UPDATE
People were having questions about
positive and negative wiring so here is how I
did it. Just make sure that the positive
connection is BEFORE the fuse (i.e. toward the
front of the car). I just tucked the relay
into the light bulb access panel (the circled
panel).
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For wire
routing I just tucked the passenger side wire
loom up against the back of the Styrofoam
impact bumper, you will see how there is
plenty of room.
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