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FOREWORD/TOOLS. |
WHAT YOU'RE REMOVING. |
Having received my parts from Hillside (thank
you very much!) I set out this afternoon to
install the MKV LHD drivers mini-glovebox. Not
finding a write-up for this little mod after
running into a little trouble, I grabbed the
digicam and went back to work. Here are the
results!
On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd rank this one as a 4.
The job may require you to be a left-handed
Japanese albino midget, but I did okay. You'll
need the following tools:
- Flashlight
- T-20 driver or socket
- T-30 driver or socket
- Ratchet drive wrench for sockets
- Socket extension (wobble not necessary)
- Long, flat blade screwdriver
- 10mm box wrench (ratcheting if you have them!)
DISCLAIMER: This
write-up was performed by a conscientious GTI
owner on his own US-model 2006 VW MkV GTI. It
involves the removal of three metal components
and the replacement of a plastic component that
may or may not be part of the structural or
safety elements of his car. He makes no
guarantee that his or your vehicle warranty will
not be negatively affected for performing this
modification. Your use of this information is
done at your own risk. The author nor this forum
may be held responsible for your actions in
consuming this information.
VW TECH BY: John Scofield
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Pictured are three of the most diabolical
villains you never knew were hiding in your
dash.
The big guy in the upper right comes out easily
enough and exposes the relay panel adjacent to
the fuse block. It appears this bracket is
intended for easy removal for relay access. It's
two smaller companions are not so easy to remove
and required the articulate action of
Craftsman's fine 10mm ratcheting box wrench.
More below.
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WHAT YOU'RE REPLACING. |
WHAT YOU'LL END UP WITH. |
This is the original lower left side of the
driver's dash panel. It is attached with three
T-20 coarse screws along the bottom edge, a T-20
hiding behind the light switch, and a single
T-20 screw at the upper right adjacent to the
gauge cluster covered by the steering column
dust cover. It plays host to a pair of steel
clipserts on its left that hold the fuse cover
door in place. |
The OEM mini-glovebox. The author purchased
his from Hillside Imports in Portland, Oregon
via their e-commerce website and is pleased to
report their good customer service. |
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STEP 1. |
STEP 2. |
First things first,
you'll need to remove the headlight selector
switch. It has a different connector than
earlier models but removes much the same way.
With the lights off, push the selector in
approximately an eighth of an inch the turn
clockwise half and inch to disengage the switch
prongs from the dash. |
Pull the disengaged
switch from the dash, unplug, and set aside in a
safe place. Peek inside the opening for a look
at the first of five T-20 coarse screws that
attach the original dash piece. |
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STEP 3. |
STEP 4. |
Next, you'll need to expose the T-20 screws that
attach each of the driver's lower dash pieces to
the midline of the dash. Lower your steering
column for better access and simply slide the
center section of the lower gauge cluster bezel
toward you to unclip it from the dash. You will
see each of two T-20's, one on each side
underneath. |
At the very bottom of the left side lower dash
panel will be three more T-20's. Before removing
them, pop off the fuse panel cover on the left
side of the dash, facing the door. It simply
pops out using the key/screwdriver access notch
along it's bottom edge. Find the steel clipserts
in the lower dash cover and pop them out for
safekeeping. You may lose them as the lower dash
comes away from the car in a moment. |
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STEP 5. |
STEP 6. |
Now remove each of the
five T-20 screws that attach the lower left dash
panel to the car. Carefully drop the panel and
unplug the dimmer switch from the wiring
harness.
Take the original panel to a clean workspace
and compare it to your replacement panel.
First, notice that the original trim piece
and dimmer need to be moved from the back of the
original panel. Pop the trim out from the left
by pressing the tab through the clipsert and
then unhinging it from the right (looking at the
inside). Cautiously unclip the dimmer rheostat
from the original dash panel. Transfer both
pieces to your new mini-glovebox lower dash and
attach in reverse order. |
Continue the comparison with the original piece.
Notice the new piece attaches in three entirely
new areas. Shockingly, you may already find the
clipserts for these attachment points already
under your dash! If not, simply slip the
clipserts off the old locations and move them,
flat side toward the new piece, to the
corresponding new attachment points of the new
piece. |
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STEP 7. |
STEP 8. |
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That big ugly brute of
a bracket is sitting there spoiling the fun.
With him in the way, the new lower dash piece
fits fine but its friendly little door has no
room to close... much less attach. The bracket
has to go. Hook up your T-30 and remove the five
bolts below (bracket already removed for this
photo). |
Next, his friends have to go too. I had the
assembly almost together twice, once each for
the two brackets that have to come out.
The first is the tougher one. Spanning the dash
under the steering column, the long bracket is
attached with one T-30 bolt under the right side
of the lower dash cover.
I first removed the T-20 from the top of the
right side lower dash, up near the gauges. |
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STEP 9. |
STEP 10. |
Then I removed the two
T-20s holding the bottom of the right side lower
dash. |
Without completely
removing the lower right dash, I could reach to
the lone T-30 and its clipsert to remove the
longer right side bracket. It has a 10mm head
which my Craftsman ratcheting box wrench took
care of neatly.
(Looking behind the lower right side drivers
dash panel toward the center of the car, this
clipsert is inline with the accelerator pedal)
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STEP 11. |
STEP 12. |
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You may notice I not
only removed the brackets by the clipserts too.
I do not want them creating new noises if at all
possible so I've set them aside. If a T-30 bolt
could be reattached, I did so on the possibility
or returning the car to 'stock' in the future
and recycling the original fasteners. |
Finally, there is a small
dogleg bracket on the extreme left of the dash.
The 10mm ratcheting box wrench also zipped this
one off with a little eastern mysticism and
correct alignment of the planets. Patience and
luck make good tools for future mods.
These three bracket pieces may or may not be
safety or structural components of the car. If
you remove them to do as I have done, you assume
all risks inherent with such actions. |
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STEP 13. |
STEP 14. |
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Reattach the drivers lower right side dash
panel. All three T-20's go back in their
original locations.
Go to your new drivers lower left dash cover and
gently remove the clipserts for the fuse panel
cover. They will get in the way when attaching
the new panel and are easily inserted correctly
afterwards.
Connect the wiring harness to the dimmer switch
attached to the new panel.
Carefully align and attach the new piece using
the two original T-20 screw locations from
inside the light switch and next to the gauge
cluster. Be sure to clip the inside lower right
of the new panel into the clipsert in the dash
frame. There are two guides moulded into the new
piece along the bottom that help the alignment
come out correct; use them! Finally, recycle the
the T-20 screws from the bottom edge of the
original panel into the back (2) and top (1) of
the mini-glovebox opening. You should have
confirmed or already moved any clipserts
necessary to make a solid connection at these
three points. |
Insert the clipserts for the fuse panel cover. |
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STEP 15. |
JOB WELL DONE. |
Replace the fuse panel
cover.
Replace the center section of the lower part of
the instrument bezel. Tuck in the steering
column dust cover if you need.
Reach up inside the mini-glovebox opening and
thread the headlight switch wiring harness back
through the switch opening. Reattach the light
switch and press it back into the new dash piece
until it clicks into place.
Align the mini-glovebox door to the new dash
cover and press the open half of the hinge onto
the rod spaces of the new dash cover. Carefully
swing the door upward and click the retainers
back past the dash cover to set the door in the
open position.
Test the swing operation of the mini-glovebox
door against the new dash... |
With a bit of
contortion and some patience, you're the proud
parent of an OEM mini-glovebox! All your OEM+
show points are belong to Sco! |
