| WHAT
YOU NEED |
STEP
1. |
You will need the following tools:
13mm, 16mm and 17mm box end wrench
13mm, 16mm, and 17mm shallow sockets
13mm, 16mm, and 17mm deep sockets
Socket extension
5mm hex bit - for 3/8 drive
8mm by 1.25 pitch thread TAP
Anti-seize compound
Blue (medium) Loctite
Floor jack and jack stands
|
First of all, jack up the car and support it
on a good set of jack stands. Note: Some cars
have a hydraulic damper/balance weight in the
middle of the torsion beam. There are two hex
bolts that hold it in place. They are show in
the picture above. You will have to remove
these bolts and replace them with the button
bolts provided by Neuspeed. |
| STEP
2. |
STEP
3. |
Once you remove the bolts - remove the balance
weight. It comes right off. That's it in the
picture above. |
Place the balance weight in a vise and use the
8mm 1.25 pitch tap to clean out the holes.
Replace the balance weight and use the blue
loctite on the button bolts provided and
tighten them with the 5mm hex bit. |
| STEP
4. |
STEP
5. |
Now take each of the two red bushings and
liberally coat the inside of the bushings with
the special clear grease supplied with the bar
and put them on the bar at the end of the
straight part, right before the bend. |
Using the new brackets, hold the bar in place,
centered between the shock mounts. Hook the
bottom end of the bracket on the torsion beam
and push the bracket back until it snaps into
place. Do both sides and then adjust to
further center the bar by sliding each bracket
on the beam. Once you have it centered, bolt
the clamp locks to the upper part of the
torsion bar using the 13mm wrench on the top
and the 13mm socket and extension to tighten
the nut. Make sure that the short side of the
clamp fits flat against the edge of the beam. |
| STEP
6. |
STEP
7. |
The end links are in two pieces. Coat the
lower piece threads with anti-seize and screw
on the lock nut and then screw it on to the
upper link piece. The diagram included with
the instructions is very helpful. Adjust them
so they are equal in length. I had about 4
threads showing above the lock nut. The legnth
of the link will differ depending on what
location on the bar you use. I used the middle
location so I adjusted them to as short as I
could make them. Do not tighten the locknut
until you install the links.
Place the floor jack under the lower spring
perch on the torsion beam with just enough
force to hold it in place so the beam does not
drop when you remove the lower shock bolt.
Remove the lower shock bolts with the 17mm
socket and wrench and replace them with the
new 80mm bolts supplied with the bar. The bolt
head goes on the outside and then place a
washer on the bolt on the inside of the link.
The non-threaded portion of the link goes on
top. Repeat on the other side. |
Almost done - take the 50mm bolts and slide
them through the end of the bar in one of the
three holes. I used the middle, the front
makes it stiffer, the rear makes it softer.
Place washer between the link and the bar.
Using the 17mm socket and wrench tighten the
bolts. When complete it should look like the
photo above. |
| STEP
8. |
The last step is tightening the locknut on the
link. Do not over tighten which is easy to do
because of the anti-seize on the threads.
RECHECK all the bolts and tighten as
necessary. The finished product should look
like the above.
All in all this took me 45 minutes from start
to finish, including taking pics. You should
be able to do this in about 30 minutes. Good
Luck. |
