| BEFORE
THE INSTALL |
STEP
1. |
Shows the engine bay before the installation
of the VF-Engineering Supercharger Kit. All
stock except for Neuspeed P-Flow and GIAC v11
ECU.
RELATED SITES:
VF-ENGINEERING
MOTRONIX
MOTORSPORTS |
Marking and drilling the pilot hole for the
tool to create the hole for the oil return
drain line. This is a very easy to do with
effective tool supplied with the kit. The
drain for the s/c needs to be threaded in to
the pan. The oil pan metal is very thin and
cannot be threaded properly. This tool is
designed to create a metal shoulder in the oil
pan to allow ample amounts of thread to be cut
for the drain line. The trick is the grease
the drill bit first, so most of the filings
stick to the grease of the drill bit. As well
as the tap. |
| STEP
2. |
STEP
3. |
This is the drain fitting that is tightened to
the oil pan using the supplied Loctite. |
The most difficult part of the whole job is
getting your hands in there to remove the oil
filter housing from the car. To make life
easier, the trick is to first remove the large
32mm bolt that holds square oil cooler next to
the oil filter housing. move it out of the way
and that gives you room to disconnect the 3
sensors on the housing. Make sure you mark or
know to what sensor the colour coded wires go
to. Next, you will remove the oil temperature
sensor (not the one that is removed from the
housing that you can see) but the top left
one. The oil pressure line that feeds the s/c
will be screwed into that port, and the oil
temperature sensor will be mounted to the
fitting of that line. Feed the line through
the front of the intake and install it back to
the block. |
| STEP
4. |
STEP
5. |
This shows the oil line, air filter housing
and intake tube removed. The stock tensioner
will be removed, and also the serpentine belt. |
The charcoal canister will be removed and
relocated to the other side of the vehicle,
and there is actually a nice mounting spot
where it will be clipped in like factory. You
will have to trim a bit to make it fit, but it
fits perfectly. Lastly will have to run the
rubber lines from under the car and across to
connect back to the canister. |
| STEP
6. |
STEP
7. |
This shows the rubber lines routed along the
front sub frame area. Four or ties should do
the job. |
There is a check valve that prevents boost
pressure into the breather hose system. This
is the only line off the throttle body. Cut
and install the check valve in the right
direction. One way it allows vacuum to pass
through, but as soon as it hits boost, it
closes the valve and doesn't allow boost
pressure in to the crankcase system. |
| STEP
8. |
STEP
9. |
The factory tensioner is removed and the new
mounting bracket is installed. This bracket
will be the mounting point for the charger. |
The power steering pulley has to be replaced
with the new one supplied in the kit. |
| STEP
10. |
STEP
11. |
This is the s/c mounted to the bracket. The
bracket on the charger is slotted to allow it
to swivel for belt adjustment. When mounting
the charger, feed the new serpentine belt
around the s/c pulley then snug the bolts to
line up the s/c. The drain line for the
charger is now connected at the bottom of the
charger. |
This image shows the new belt lined up with
the alternator pulley. I tensioned the charger
and bolted it securely. |
| STEP
12. |
STEP
13. |
The intake tube, mounts neatly so the inlet is
now feeding through the hole of the body where
the charcoal canister used to live. The mass
air flow sensor will be mounted on the inlet
side of the charger, where its supposed to be,
and not on the outlet side of the charger like
another kit is designed :) |
This is the line where the diverter valve is
connected to allow boost pressure back into
the intake system under shifts. |
| STEP
14. |
STEP
15. |
This shows the charger and intake pipe
connected to the throttle body. A nice clean
finish to the engine compartment. |
This shows the oil pressure line connected to
the charger and how it fits perfectly in the
engine bay. |
| STEP
16. |
CLOSER
VIEW OF ENGINE BAY |
A closer view of the kit in the engine bay. |
I recommend replacing wires and plugs and fuel
filter. Your basic tune up. VF-Engineering
suggests OEM is adequate for Stage I so the
nice red factory wires will do the job! |
| STEP
17. |
ANOTHER
ENGINE SHOT |
There is a Garret chip included with the VF
kit (on an intricate encryption board). The
tricky task was making sure you do not bend
the little pins while inserting the chip. This
chip is designed to allow proper timing curves
at certain rpm's and optimize fuel delivery. |
Another shot of Davide's engine bay. |
| LOOKING
AT INTAKE PIPE |
STEP
18. |
Another image looking at the intake pipe to
the throttle body. |
Finally the kit is completed installed. Before
running to the ignition check all fittings and
pipe work to make sure everything is okay.
Finished? do it again :) Start your car and
let the newly installed ECU conform to the new
application. You will definitely notice a
different tone to the motor once the proper
mapping is in place. Drive and enjoy! |
